The principal consideration in designing any vessel is that it meet the needs of its owner at a cost he can afford. Accordingly, Catspaw was originally conceived primarily as a modest family cruiser for the tropics that might also be of service in an anticipated program of ocean wave research on the Bahama Banks. (I had recently accepted a faculty position at the University of Miami's Rosenstiel School, my first job after graduating from UCSD's Scripps Institution, and was intent upon starting up such a program.)

Although initially I did not expect that Catspaw would go around the world, I did want her also capable of crossing an ocean in the trades. However, I certainly had no intention that she would linger in higher latitudes. (Because of her exposed cockpit, she is not well suited to cold weather sailing.)

Inevitably, Catspaw's design also reflects my prior experience on and around other boats. Most influential were my experiences with two double-ended ketch-rigged sailboats, one a 28 footer that introduced me to the challenges of owning and maintaining a boat and to what it takes to successfully cruise the Bahamas, and the other a 42 footer that introduced me to offshore passage making (on an extended voyage from Fort Lauderdale to San Diego via the Panama Canal). (This latter experience also incidentally started me thinking about building my own boat.)

La Creuse (formerly Arpege) was designed by the Swiss architect Georges Hofmann for my fellow student and good friend at Scripps, Jean Filloux. Some years prior to our meeting at Scripps and sailing La Creuse to San Diego, Jean, newly arrived from France, had entered into a business arrangement with a French entrepreneur and importer of perfume. It was the early 1950s and fiberglass was being touted as a new construction material for boats. Jean would build a fiberglass boat (one of the first), the importer would pay the costs of constructing it, Jean would keep the boat, and the importer would be privy to what Jean learned during its construction (and would possibly find some way to profit from this knowledge). There is more to this story, but it is not really germaine to this account.

La Creuse had a number of features that appealed to me, many of which found their way aboard Catspaw. In particular, I liked her ketch rig, her large expanse of open deck forward, her high freeboard (giving lots of space below), her relatively high bulwark (to retain any loose items on deck), and her aft cabin (made less habitable, however, by an overlying aft cockpit set deep into the main deck).

In designing Catspaw, I started with some basic concepts, a sail plan, and an arrangement plan, and essentially fit a hull around these concepts and plans, using Chapelle's "Yacht Designing and Planning" as a guide to drafting a consistent set of lines. Catspaw would borrow many features from La Creuse, but would be somewhat shorter in length. Like La Creuse, she would have an aft cabin with an overlying aft cockpit, but this cockpit would be shallow rather than deep, and she would have a transom stern instead of being double-ended (to improve the habitability of the stateroom). Like La Creuse, she would be of composite construction, but instead of a thin inner layer of cold molded mahogany veneer covered with a thick layer of fiberglass, she would have a thick inner layer of strip planked mahogany covered with a relatively thin layer of fiberglass.

I sent the plans to Hofmann, asking for his comments, and was elated to receive a largely positive nine-page hand-written reply. The bottom line: Hofmann liked the boat. His primary criticism: the 6% lead designed into the sail plan was too conservative; it needed to be doubled. (I split the difference and modified the sail plan to give a lead of 9%.)

As I had not previously designed a boat, I had also never built one (unless you count the kit Sailfish that my brother and I put together several years earlier). This relative inexperience also had clear design implications. In particular, it helped to define how Catspaw would be constructed. She would be primarily a wooden boat, because wood was a material that I felt I could work with. But she would not be conventionally planked. Instead she would be strip planked, not only because of the inherent strength of this type planking, but because it would not require any specialized skills on my part.

I was leery of working with fiberglass. It is a nasty material with possible long term health implications. Nonetheless, I could understand the importance of adding an outer layer of fiberglass to the skin (to provide additional strength but, more importantly, to waterproof the hull and deck). I would use fiberglass, but sparingly. Catspaw would be constructed mostly of wood.

The ketch rig is often criticized as inefficient and poorly suited to running down wind (because the mizzen, if set, tends to blanket the other sails). Inherent in both charges is the implicit assumption that what is of paramount importance is to get from one place to another in as short a time as possible. But when cruising (as opposed to racing), speed is not paramount. You just want to get there in a reasonable time, and you want the passage to be safe and comfortable.

If you are planning your cruises correctly, you should be spending a good portion of your time sailing off the wind. Typically, however, you don't have to sail dead before. If your destination happens to be more or less directly downwind, you can tack downwind without significantly impacting your travel time. What you lose by increasing the distance travelled, you will typicaly gain back from the increased speed sailing at an angle to the wind. And you will roll less and be more comfortable.

Catspaw has comfortably tracked thousands of miles in this fashion. All three jibs have the exact same spacing on the piston hanks that attach these jibs to the forestay. This means that, by alternating hanks, one can set two jibs simultaneously. By poling the working jib to windward and sheeting another larger jib to leeward from the end of the main boom, one achieves a basic wing and wing configuration that is quite effective in moving Catspaw forward. At about 20 to 30 degrees off the wind, one can add either the main or the mizzen without blanketing the leeward jib, and this addition will steady the motion. At about 40 degrees off the wind, one can add both the main and the mizzen. When tacking downwind, it is best to employ long tacks, because jibing Catspaw around with two jibs set is a bit complicated.

Catspaw's rather primitive whisker pole (a redwood pole terminating in two 1/2 in lag eyebolts into which a 45 degree opening has been cut) is free standing. Inboard, this pole hooks into one of two horizontal eyes on the mast (just above eye level) and, outboard, into the bowline attaching the sheet or sheet block to the clew of the working jib. We are still using the same whisker pole we laminated in Nassau in 1980 (on our way to Panama). Although it gets difficult to handle this pole when the wind pipes up to 20 kts or more, it has never once fallen overboard in all these years. Some years ago. I added a tang on the forward side of the mainmast from which to suspend this pole, but I have never rigged this suspension.

Close hauled, Catspaw is not a smart performer, but she will get you there. On the wind at moderate wind speeds with all working sails set, she is reasonably well balanced, with a slight weather helm that increases with the wind speed.

On a reach at moderate wind speeds with all working sails set, Catspaw is less well balanced, but can typically be brought into relative balance by going to a larger jib and/or simply dropping the mizzen. The beauty of the ketch rig is twofold. No sail is so large that it is difficult to handle, and one has multiple options on which sails to set for a given wind speed and heading. Given some wind, one can almost always find a sail configuration that both balances the helm and moves the boat forward at an acceptable speed.

At higher wind speeds, reef points in the working jib, main and mizzen provide further choices for bringing the sail plan into balance and controlling Catspaw's speed. (All three working sails have a single line of conventional reef points.)

Catspaw's laminated solid fir masts are both stepped below decks, the main on the stem and the mizzen on the keel (via a fir and white oak step that allows the engine shaft to pass through the step and under the foot of the mast).

Both masts are stayed with four lower stays, terminating at the spreaders, and two upper stays, passing through the outer ends of these spreaders to the head of the masts. The mainmast has three additional stays to its head, a forestay and two permanent backstays. At their lower ends, all stays terminate (via turnbuckles) in outside chainplates, throughbolted to white oak backing plates inside the strip planked skin.

All winches are the same simple Wilcox Crittenden bronze winch, single action, nongeared, and easily serviced and maintained. (The rachet is controlled by pairs of opposing stainless steel plungers separated by springs.) The halyard winches are mounted directly on the masts at eye level, three on the mainmast and one on the mizzenmast. The winch for the main sheet is mounted vertically on the roof of the deckhouse, and the two winches for the jib sheets are mounted horizontally, port and starboard, on the outside of the cockpit coaming. (The mizzen sheet does not use a winch.)

Two sets of tracks are available for leading the jib sheets from winch to sail. One set of tracks is mounted outboard on the bulwark cap, the other set, more inboard and further forward, on the main deck. The lead for the jib sheets depends on which jib is set and on the heading relative to the wind.

On the wind, the lead from the winch to the working jib goes first through a standing block (mounted in the waterway on deck at the forward end of the deckhouse), then through a block on the deck track, and then inside the forward lower stay to the clew of the sail. If the wind is light, this sheet is attached directly to the clew; if not, it goes through a block attached to the clew and returns to a car on the deck track (giving the sheet a two-part purchase). On a reach or off the wind, this sheet goes from the winch directly to a block on the outboard track, from there outside all stays to the clew of the sail, and, except in light wind, through a block attached to the clew back to a car on the outboard track.

The lead for the reacher is always directly through a block on the outboard track, outside all stays to the clew of the sail, and, except in light wind, through a block attached to the clew back to a car on the outboard track. The lead for the intermediate jib is in between that for the working jib and the reacher.

A third set of tracks, intended for a fourth light weather jib (ghoster) is attached to the aft several feet of the bulwark cap. We have this sail, built in the early 1970s, but we normally do not carry it along and have only very rarely deployed it. (Usually, when the wind is very light, it is also very unsteady, so one has to work very hard for very little reward. It is often better to simply sit and wait.)

We also have a mule from this same period that hanks to the windward backstay to the mainmast and sheets through a block at the head of the mizzenmast. It's a tiny sail that also seems more trouble than it's worth.

All sheets and halyards are 1/2 in dacron three strand. The sheets and the mizzen halyard are controlled from inside the cockpit. The main halyard and all jib halyards are controlled on deck from the base of the mainmast.

The retaining cleats for all sheets and halyards are interchangeable and are fashioned from white oak. The halyard cleats are lagged into the mast. The sheet cleats are throughbolted.

Catspaw's boomkin and bowsprit provide a simple and inexpensive means for spreading her sail plan fore and aft and for increasing her effective deck area.

In addition, Catspaw's boomkin serves four functions that might be difficult to satisfy in other ways: 1) it allows full access to the mizzen boom, 2) it provides a suitable location for the wind vane steerer, 3) it provides a suitable platform from which to suspend a collapsible swimming ladder, and 4) it houses an auxilliary outdoor head (set in the hatch above the swimming ladder).

Similarly, Catspaw's wide pulpit-capped bowsprit 1) provides a secure platform from which to access the forestay and hank and unhank her jibs, 2) provides twin rollers for Catspaw's port and starboard anchor lines that lead these lines clear of the bobstay, and 3) integrates a convenient rig for stowing Catspaw's working anchors.

Catspaw's pulpit does not enclose the forestay, but ends short of this stay, providing improved support for sailhandling from the bowsprit and allowing the foot of the jibs, which set outboard of the pulpit, to be hanked low on the stay, without chafing on the pulpit.

The forward end of the bowsprit is held in place by the forestay (running to the top of the maninmast and backed by a pair of permanent backstays running from the top of this mast to chainplates just forward of the mizzen chainplates), a solid bobstay (running to a pair of straps lagged into the two sides of the stem just below the waterline), and two whisker stays (running to tangs bolted to the bulwark several feet aft of the forward chocks). The bowsprit enters the bulwark through a hole cut into its forward end and runs along the deck to the bits, where it is pinned between the bits. An additional strap attaches the middle of the bowsprit to the upper end of the stem.

The principal features of Catspaw's main deck are her shallow (deck level) cockpit aft and short low deckhouse just forward of this cockpit. A wide expanse of essentially open deck lies forward of the deckhouse, from midships to the bow. The cockpit coaming is essentially a continuation of the sides of the deckhouse.

The entire main deck is surrounded by a substantial bulwark (that is a capped continuation of Catspaw's strip-planked skin) and by a jacketed stainless steel lifeline that runs from the bow pulpit to the aft end of the boomkin (port and starboard). The lifeline is supported by custom stainless steel stanchions, bolted to the inside of the bulwark. A taffrail above the transom bridges the bulwark at its aft end. Between the bulwark and outboard edge of the cockpit/deckhouse is a foot-wide waterway. The cockpit drains into this waterway through two decklevel cutouts at its forward end. The bulwark drains overboard through decklevel cutouts amidships (and also at times through the chocks set in the bulwark, particularly through the midships chocks. The deck has a substantial crown, so drainage is not a problem.

To provide access, light, and ventilation between decks, Catspaw has one sliding main hatch, three additional opening hatches, seven opening ports, four Dorade ventilators, and a Charlie Noble.

All hatches are two-layer trunk hatches, 1/2 in lexan over a Philippine mahogany base frame. The sliding main hatch runs on brass strap fastened to the hatch and to a Philippine mahogany trunk, set into the roof of the deckhouse. The opening hatches are hinged to Philippine mahogany trunks set into the main deck.

The sliding main hatch is at the aft end of the deckhouse on the starboard side. The hatch slides into a fiberglass box that discourages spray from finding its way below. An acryllic dodger, attached to this box and extending aft over the hatch, also discourages spray and rain from directly entering the open hatch. This dodger collapses forward to ease the access below when the dodger is not needed. (One can quite readily negotiate this access when the dodger is up, but it is a tight fit, as the main boom has to clear the top of the dodger.)

Two of the additional hatches are simple trunk hatches that open forward. The aft hatch is amidships, between the aft end of the cockpit and the transom, and opens on the aft end of the aft stateroom. The forward hatch is amidships, just aft of the bits, and opens on the forepeak. The third additional hatch, a skylight above the saloon, lies between the mainmast and the forward end of the deckhouse. This skylight runs fore and aft and has two leaves that open outboard, port and starboard. These hatches can all be propped open to improve the circulation of air.

The opening ports are all Wilcox Crittenden 8 in bronze ports. Five of these are set into the sides of the deckhouse, two each on the port and starboard sides of this house and one on its aft side (communicating with the port side of the cockpit). The two remaining ports are set into the transom, above the berths in the aft stateroom. All ports open inboard and can be fixed in the open position.

Catspaw's Philippine mahogany and PVC Dorade vents are built into the main deck at the ends of the boat, two at the forward end, outboard of the bits, and two at the aft end, outboard of the aft hatch. The vents are fastened from below and can be removed for refinishing. The Charlie Noble is on the port side of the deckhouse above the galley.

Between the forward end of the deckhouse and the skylight is a custom built deckbox, employed originally to hold our Crewsaver liferaft and more recently to hold a variety of deck gear. (We still have the liferaft, but have not carried it aboard since our return from around the world, because we felt that, in South Florida and the Bahamas, our emergency needs were adequately served by a handheld GPS, handheld VHF, and an inflatable. The deckbox is also fastened from below and can be removed to refinish it, the deck, and the forward side of the deckhouse.

Port and starboard of the deckbox are two 15 gal custom built clyindrical fiberglass tanks that can be used to store fluids in addition to the diesel fuel and water tanked below decks. In the past we have used these tanks for gasoline (for outboards and a small motor scooter) and kerosene (for the stove and cabin lights). These tanks are lashed in place on a pair of cradles outboard of the deckbox.

An 80 watt Kyocera solar panel sits on the port forward corner of the deckhouse roof. The location and attitude of this panel are not adjustable. At anchor or at the dock in the Bahamas and/or South Florida, this location and attitude normally charges the batteries at a substantial, if less than optimum, average rate. Under sail, the charge rate can be quite variable, depending on whether or not the sails shade the panel. This simple installation is, however, quite robust and does not need tending. (Catspaw has two additional flexible panels that can be tied in the rigging as desired to provide additional charging.)

On the aft side of the deckhouse, just starboard of amidships, are mounted a series of connections between Catspaw's interior and the cockpit. These connections include a vent for the engine room blower, two overflow lines for Catspaw's water tanks, a hose fill for Catspaw's water tanks, a 120 VAC shore power connector, a 12 VDC battery power connector, and two cockpit speaker connectors. These connections are brought up from below via a vertical duct beneath the ladder at the aft end of the galley.

Just aft of the deckhouse, at the forward end of the cockpit, the mizzenmast rises from the forward end of the aft stateroom. An acryllic and weblon boot (lashed to the mast and to a rim lining the mast hole in the deck) covers the crack between the mast and deck.

A low cushion-covered bench runs along the inside of the cockpit (port, starboard, and aft). Just forward of the aft section of this bench is a control post for the engine. The throttle control is on the port side of this post, and the transmission control is on starboard side. At the top of the post is Catspaw's Ritchie Navigator compass. A removable formica cockpit table (edged with a varnished Philippine mahogany keeper) cantilevers from the post.

Catspaw's outboard rudder hangs from three stainless steel hinges throughbolted to her sternpost. A removable tiller controlling this rudder extends over the aft coaming of the cockpit to just aft of the control post. A trim tab hangs from the trailing edge of the rudder and is controlled through a series of linkages by the wind vane steerer mounted on the boomkin. (See below.)

Somewhat forward of the skylight, the mainmast rises from the aft end of the forepeak. The boot arrangement for the mainmast is identical to that for the mizzenmast. Two relict panels, originally intended to support kerosene running lights, are mounted in the standing rigging port and starboard of the mainmast. Currently, these panels serve two purposes. They provide a lower point of attachment for the flag halyards that run up to the outer ends of the spreaders, and they provide a convenient (on deck) mount for Catspaw's Nissan outboard (for the inflatable).

A bow mount for Catspaw's Jolly Boat is integrated into the bowsprit and a transom mount into the main deck between the mainmast and the forward hatch. The Jolly Boat stows upside down on these mounts, locked in place by two pins on the transom mount (that slide into the lifting eyes on the Jolly Boat's transom). The Jolly Boat covers the aft bowsprit, bits, and forward hatch, which hatch can normally be left propped open (even underway and even if it is raining) to introduce fresh air below.

A fiberglass tray for the anchor chains straddles the bowsprit, forward of the bow mount for the Jolly Boat. The chains run through chocks at the forward end of the bulwark to the rollers on the bowsprit and back to the stowed anchors. Retaining clips from the bits keep the chains from running out throught the chocks.The bitter end of both anchor lines is attached to the bits, from which the lines run back and forth along the bulwark to the chains. When deployed, the anchor lines are belayed to cleats built into the bulwark just aft of the chocks. A section of hose prevents the anchor lines from chafing on the chocks and/or rollers. In this fashion, Catspaw's ground tackle is kept completely above the main deck.

The Jolly Boat is launched by first lifting its bow above the bow mount, sliding it aft a few inches to disengage the pins on the transom mount, then lifting and turning it rightside up, resting it on top of the bits, attaching a harness to its three lifting eyes (two on the transom and one on the bow), attaching one of the jib halyards to the harness, and using the halyard to lift it clear of the lifeline and drop it into the water. This operation normally takes two people, one to lift the transom and handle the jib sheet and winch and one to lift the bow and guide the Jolly Boat overboard.

2009 Dock Photos

2009 Main Deck Photos

2009 Foredeck Photos

2009 Midships Photos

2009 Cockpit and Boomkin Photos

Catspaw's low-aspect high-freeboard design and her efficient and open layout give her an enormous amount of living space below decks. Many forty footers do not have as much space.

Access to and from Catspaw's interior from and to the cockpit is provided by the sliding main hatch at the aft end of the deckhouse roof (on the starboard side). Immediately beneath this hatch is a ladder leading to the galley below and, beneath this ladder, a duct connecting Catspaw's interior with the cockpit. The ladder folds up against the deckhouse roof to provide improved access to the duct, to the engine and battery compartments beneath the galley sole, and to components of Catspaw's refrigeration system, mounted on the aft bulkhead beneath the starboard counter.

Catspaw's galley houses not only her galley and her engine and battery compartments, but her refrigeration system, her chart table and chart stowage, her electrical control panel, and, port and starboard of her engine compartment, two 60 gal fuel tanks. It also provides a large amount of storage space for galleyware, foodstuffs, and other items.

Wraparound formica counters, extending from the aft bulkhead at the aft end of the galley to the main bulkhead at its forward end, line the galley on both sides. These counters are edged with Philippine mahogany keepers (as are all Catspaw's formica counters, shelves, and tables).

The counter on the port side begins aft with a forward facing stainless steel sink. Under the sink is a storage cabinet for dishwashing and other detergent supplies. This cabinet also provides access to two 3/4 in nylon seacocks for raw water in (to the engine and to the sink), to a 1 1/2 in nylon seacock for sink drain water out, and to Catspaw's Par Sea Puppy diaphragm bilge and sump pump, mounted above the water line and discharging through a fourth bronze thruhull at the waterline. (A series of inline plastic valves, accessible beneath the stepdown to the aft stateroom, control whether this pump connects to the bilge or to the sump beneath the shaft's inboard stuffing tube.) Two faucets, activated by Whale Babyfoot pumps beneath the cabinet door, pump fresh and salt water to the sink. The rectangular sink is large enough to hold a small plastic tub. There is room for a plastic dishbin and drain mat on the counter outboard of the sink. The dishbin, drain mat, and several tubs stow readily in the cabinet beneath the sink. Mounted on the aft side of the deckhouse trunk above the sink is a rack for Catspaw's aluminum tumblers.

Forward and outboard of the sink, in a recess cut into the fore and aft running center section of the port counter, sits Catspaw's gimbal-mounted stove. This stove is a rebuilt version of a Shipmate two-burner kerosene stove. (It has been heavily ballasted to improve its stability, and its aluminum hardware has been replaced with stainless steel.) The stove employs Primus burners.

Under the counter, fore and aft of the stove, are two sets of drawers, opening inboard. Aft of the stove are a pair of shallow drawers containing Catspaw's cutlery and stainless steel dinnerware. Forward of the stove is a single drawer containing a variety of other cooking and cleaning gear. Under these drawers and the stove are a row of five hinged bins that also open inboard. The outer ventilated bins under the drawers are used to store onions and potatoes; the inner bins under the stove are used to store canned goods of various sizes. Tucked under the main deck above the outboard edge of the port counter are two additional bins. The aft bin stores Catspaw's Corelle plateware, the forward bin, its stainless steel potware.

At its forward end, the port counter wraps around and runs along the main bulkhead, ending amidships in Catspaw's starboard-facing electrical panel. Two aft-facing cabinet doors under this section of the counter provide access to the back side of this panel and to a series of upper and lower storage bins. A large opening in the main bulkhead above this section of the counter allows one to readily pass food and dishes through to and from the saloon dinette and contributes substantially to the openness of Catspaw's below decks layout. Above this opening, facing aft, is a spicerack. Mounted on the forward side of the deckhouse trunk amidships are the ship's barometer and clock.

The counter on the starboard side begins aft with a narrow counter under the ladder, extending outboard from the cockpit duct along the aft bulkhead. Mounted on the bulkhead beneath this counter are several components of Catspaw's refrigeration system. These components are accessed through two forward-facing cabinet doors under the counter, one of which has a hole cut into it to enable a view of the system's gauges and sight glass (without raising the ladder and opening the door).

Outboard of the ladder, the counter wraps around and runs fore and aft to Catspaw's large chart table, which begins about halfway to the main bulkhead and wraps the counter back inboard along this bulkhead. Catspaw's icebox and holding plate are set into this counter between the chart table and the aft bulkhead. Two insulated lids flush with the countertop provide access to the toploading icebox. Two inboard-opening cabinet doors provide access to some additional storage space beneath the icebox (currently dedicated to Catspaw's life preservers).

Charts are stored rolled up in four inboard-facing PVC tubes under the chart table, stacked one on top of the other along the aft edge of this table. Forward of this stack, two inboard-facing cabinet doors provide access to Catspaw's primary food storage, a series of upper and lower bins for canned goods. Mounted on the main bulkhead above the chart table is a rack for the ship's log, navigation tables, and chart tools. A pair of cargo nets above the chart table, hung fore and aft betweeen the main bulkhead and a deck beam in the roof of the deckhouse, are used to store fresh fruits and vegetables.

Tucked under the main deck above the outboard edge of the starboard counter is an additional shelf (divided into a series of bins) for storing various navigational gear. Catspaw's Sitex recording fathometer and Icom VHF radio are mounted on a small addon to this shelf at its aft end.

2009 Galley Photos

One enters the aft stateroom from the galley by stepping down through an opening on the port side of the aft bulkhead past the mizzenmast. Immediately aft of the opening on either side, are a pair of vanities, fronted by a pair of small inboard-facing formica shelves. Modules on top of these vanities contain two drawers, the lower drawers facing inboard and the upper drawers facing aft and opening on the foot of two berths. Above the lower drawers (above the shelves) are a pair of inboard-facing mirrors integrated into the modules. The modules are capped with open bins. In the past the port bin has been used for Catspaw's ham radio; a sliding formica-lined writing shelf opens beneath this bin (above the drawer). Under the vanity shelves are upper and lower drawers that in the past have been used primarily to store various foodstuffs (eggs, pasta, snacks, and canned fish).

Aft of the vanities, the two berths in the aft stateroom extend to (and to some extent converge upon) Catspaw's transom. These berths are 4 in polyurethane foam over removable plywood panels and are well lit, well ventilated, and quite comfortable. Underway, the least active and therefore most comfortable compartment in the boat is undoubtedly the galley, but the berths in both the saloon and the aft stateroom are quite comfortable (and much preferable to the V berths at the head of many cruising boats). The ports in the transom over the berths in the aft stateroom can normally be left open underway. (The times that we have had water splash in through these ports has been confined to only a very few occasions where a nasty chop has combined with a lack of wind to make Catspaw hobby horse. We have of course closed these ports the few times we have been underway in truly nasty conditions.)

Several feet aft of the mizzenmast is the control post that leads the engine controls from cockpit to engine room. Forward of this post is a small removable trapezoidal settee, beneath which is a clothes hamper. This seat provides both a place to sit down in the aft stateroom and a step up into either berth. It also provides access to the aft end of the shaft, its inboard stuffing tube, and the sump beneath this stuffing tube. This stuffing tube can be tightened or loosened from above using a pair of special wrenches, and grease can be forced into the cavity between the inboard and outboard stuffing tubes (through a grease fitting integrated into the body of the inboard stuffing tube). (Normally, the drip from the inboard stuffing tube can be completely stopped by introducing more grease. This is useful when Catspaw has to be left alone for an extended period of time.)

Port and starboard of the control post at the aft end of the settee are a pair of narrow forward-facing cabinet doors that provide access to a large open storage area beneath the head of the berths. This is a good place to store paper towels and toilet paper, which must be cached in large quantity, but are relatively light. (In loading Catspaw, it is important not to overload the aft stateroom.) Above this storage area and between the head of the two berths is a shallow triangular storage bin and overlying removable shelf for berth related items.

At the foot of each berth are a pair of (upper and lower) inboard-facing drawers for clothes storage. Between these drawers and the access doors to the central storage area aft of the control post are a pair of inboard-facing cabinet doors accessing two additional storage shelves beneath these berths.Stretched along the clamp above the outboard edge of these berths are cargo nets for additional clothes storage.

2009 Aft Stateroom Photos

One enters the saloon from the galley by stepping down through an opening on the starboard side of the main bulkhead. An access corridor above the saloon sole runs from this opening to a similar opening on the starboard side of the forward bulkhead.

On the port side of this corridor, between a settee forward of the main bulkhead and a settee aft of the forward bulkhead, is a raised dinette. The settee cushions and backs are 4 in polyurethane foam. Outboard of the dinette is a formica counter, running fore and aft from bulkhead to bulkhead. The dinette's removable formica table locks into place inboard of the midddle section of this counter and is in turn supported at its inboard edge by a folding leg that indexes into the dinette sole. The table lowers between the tops of the settees to form a temporary double berth (with the settee backs cushioning the table top).

Beneath the counter is a storage shelf and, above the counter, a bookshelf, both of which run from bulkhead to bulkhead. Four inboard-opening cabinet doors under the counter provide access to the storage shelf. Built into the bookshelf are a wine rack (outboard of the books), four inboard-opening shallow drawers (under the bookshelf), two for cassettes (amidships) and two for paper (forward), a pen and pencil tray (forward), and a radio/DVD player module (under the drawers amidships).

Beneath the settees and raised dinette sole are a series of four drawers that open to starboard into the corridor above the saloon sole. Built into the dinette sole, outboard of the middle drawers, is the receiver module for Catspaw's pump organ. Significant additional bin storage, accessed from above by removing the seat cushions and support panels, is found inside the settees above the fore and aft drawers.

On the starboard side of the corridor, running fore and aft from bulkhead to bulkhead, are two saloon berths (4 in polyurethane foam over plywood). The lower berth fronts on the access corridor; the upper berth is set back from this corridor. Beneath the lower berth are a series of four additional drawers that open into the corridor to port. A cargo net suspended from the clamp above the upper berth provides additional clothes storage. The keyboard for the pump organ is stored against Catspaw's outer skin between the upper and lower bunks.

The drawers on both sides of the access corridor can be removed, along with their mounting rails, and the vertical struts between drawers and between the fore and aft drawers and the adjacent bulkheads, disassembled. This allows the saloon sole assembly itself to be unfastened and removed, exposing Catspaw's port and starboard water tanks at the aft end of the saloon, and, in turn, allows these tanks to be removed, if necessary. Forward of these tanks is a storage bin, accessed through a hatch in the sole assembly. (This bin currently holds Catspaw's trim ballast.)

There are four components to Catspaw's pump organ, the keyboard and reed assembly (stored as described above), reservoir (in place beneath the dinette sole), foot pump (stored in the forepeak aft of the bits), and a 3 in diameter hose connecting the reservoir and keyboard (stored on the shelf under the port counter in the saloon). To assemble the pump organ, the keyboard must first be transferred to the dinette table, where it sits facing forward, locked into a PVC-lined hole in the table top. The hose connects the underside of this hole to one of two similar holes on top of the reservoir. The foot pump in turn rests on the dinette sole and locks into the other hole in the reservoir. (By sitting at the keyboard on the forward settee and activating the foot pump, one draws a vacuum in the reservoir, which in turn pulls air through the reed assembly.)

(Freeing the keyboard from its berth storage is complicated by the fact that it is locked into place by a groove on the underside of the support panel for the upper berth. This panel must first be pushed up from below and temporary spacers inserted between the panel and its support rim. The keyboard can then be lifted from its resting place and transferred, normally a job for two.)

2009 Saloon Photos

One enters the forepeak from the saloon by stepping up through an opening on the starboard side of the forward bulkhead, past the mainmast. Further forward, one steps up again to a triangular second level that ends at the support post for the bits. Stored under the lower level of the forepeak sole are a substantial length of 3/8 in galvanized storm chain (never deployed), several shorter lengths of chain, two comealongs, and some loose inside ballast. Stored under the forward level is a 45 lb CQR storm anchor and a substantial length of 5/8 in nylon line.

On the port side of the forepeak behind the mainmast, is Catspaw's head. Instead of being isolated in a separate confined compartment, Catspaw's head is integrated into the forepeak, a much larger, more open space. What this arrangement lacks in privacy, it gains back in its more efficient utilization of space, improved ventilation, and less claustrophobic outlook when sitting on the pot. A curtain drawn across the opening in the forward bulkhead affords some measure of privacy.

The toilet, a bronze Wilcox Crittenden Junior 51 toilet, is mounted on a module that locks into place just forward of the bulkhead. The nylon seacocks for the head (3/4 in water in and 1 1/2 in waste out) are accessible through a cutout on the starboard face of this module. Both lines are fitted with anti syphon vents above the water line. The pump handle is fore and aft along the outboard edge of the module (on the right, facing aft).

Outboard of the head is a short fore and aft bathroom counter with a stainless steel sink at its forward end and four under-counter drawers (opening inboard across the top of the head) further aft. Three additional fore and aft shelves outboard of this counter run from the bulkhead to the forward end of the counter. One of these shelves is immediately outboard of and at the same level as the counter; the other two are staggered further outboard above the counter. The sink faucet is activated by a Whale Babyfoot pump mounted on Catspaw's skin beneath the counter.

The rest of the forepeak is dedicated primarily to storage. Across from the head, forward of the bulkhead on the starboard side, are three vertical banks of inboard-opening drawers, cabinets, and shelves, used to store tools, spare parts, and other smaller gear, supplies, and marine hardware.

Two large shelves (storage shelves, not a V-berth!), beginning at the forward end of the forward storage bank (starboard) and head counter (port) and running forward past the bits to the stem, accomodate sailbags, awnings, outboard motor, inflatable, and other larger gear. Mooring lines, fenders, and other line hang from rails attached to the underside of these shelves. Lashed under the deck beams above the counter and port shelf are the mast (split into two sections) and boom for Catspaw's Jolly Boat sailing dinghy. (The dinghy's sail, rudder, and tiller are stowed on the shelf.)

2009 Forepeak Photos

Catspaw's 4-cylinder diesel engine (Isuzu DL201, marinized as a Starrett 121D) is located amidships under the galley sole. It is accessed via a hatch in this sole, spanning the gap between two fiberglass fuel tanks built into and suspended from the sole. A second adjacent hatch covers a pair of 100 amp hr deep cycle storage batteries, suspended above the engine's Warner hydaulic transmission.

The engine is mounted on a pair of white oak engine beds, bolted to a galvanized angle iron frame (in turn attached to Catspaw's bilge via a series of bolts cast into this bilge). The four feet coupling the engine to the engine beds are adjustable both laterally and vertically, enabling the alignment of the engine with the shaft.

The horizontal 1 3/8 in bronze shaft is in two sections and runs from the transmission aft along the bilge to the aft stateroom and from there through the mizzenmast step, through a pillow block, through a pair of bronze stuffing tubes (one inboard and one outboard), and on out to Catspaw's bronze propellor. The two sections of shaft are coupled together just aft of the mizzenmast step, forward of the pillow block. The shaft is accessible along its entire length by removing the aft step-down in the galley sole, the panels in the sole of the aft stateroom, and the seat in the aft stateroom (and panels beneath this seat).

Catspaw's shaft is installed from inside the boat. First the aft section of this shaft is run through the stuffing tubes and the packing glands adjusted to give a good fit. Next the pillow block is closed, adjusted, and, if necessary, shimmed to match the alignment of the stuffing tubes. Then the forward section of the shaft is coupled to the transmission and the engine feet adjusted to bring the two sections of the shaft into alignment (as determined by the fit between the couplings connecting the two sections). Finally, these couplings are bolted together. (A PVC spacer between the couplings softens the connection.)

Located on the starboard side of the engine are the injector pump, secondary fuel filter, oil filter, dipstick, raw water pump, and engine shutoff. On the port side are the alternator, starter motor, air intake, and exhaust manifold/heat exchanger. Originally, the fresh water fill for the engine was on top of the manifold. Following our trip around the world, this opening was welded shut and the fill moved to an auxilliary fresh water reservoir (on the aft bulkhead under the galley sink). This reservoir connects to the underside of the manifold; a bleeder valve in the welded cap allows one to purge air from the engine's fresh water system.

A cap at the aft end of the manifold introduces and removes raw water to and from the copper heat exchanger tubing that fills the fresh water section of the manifold, and it provides a path for the engine's dry exhaust. Between the raw water pump and heat exchanger, the raw water runs through two oil coolers (mounted on the transmission), one for engine oil and one for transmission fluid. Downstream of the heat exchanger, this water runs through the jacket of two sections of exhaust riser (one leading aft on the upper starboard edge of the battery compartment, and the other leading up into the cockpit duct) and then (well up into this duct) joins the dry exhaust in a final section. The resulting wet exhaust is lead overboard via 1 1/2 in hose and a thruhull at the starboard waterline, just forward of the aft bulkhead. A monel flex coupling built into the manifold endcap leads the dry exhaust from this endcap to the exhaust riser.

On the forward face of Catspaw's engine are its fresh water pump and thermostat. A three groove power takeoff on its driveshaft allows the engine to drive external devices mounted on a plate that bridges the two engine beds at their forward end. We currently use one of these grooves to drive our refrigeration system. In the past, we have used the other two grooves to occasionally drive an AutoGen 120 VAC generator. We have not used this generator in many years, but it can presumably still be mounted and made to work.

The primary fuel filter and raw water filter are mounted on the framework running along the upper inboard edge of the starboard fuel tank.

2009 Engine Room Photos

Except for the large custom holding tank, the components of Catspaw's engine driven refrigeration system are mostly standard 1 to 1 1/2 ton refrigeration components. These components are mounted primarily on the starboard side of the engine room, on the aft bulkhead beneath the starboard counter, and in the icebox itself.

The compressor, a standard Tecumseh/York design, once widely employed to aircondition automobiles, is mounted on the plate adjacent to (and is belt driven from) the engine's power takeoff. An electromagnetic clutch wired into the refrigerator's control panel determines when the compressor cuts in and out. (The engine needs to be running, the refrigerator switch on Catspaw's electrical panel needs to be toggled on, the low side pressure needs to be above the cut-in pressure, and the high side pressure needs to be below the limit pressure in order for the clutch to engage. It then disengages if the low side pressure goes below the cut-out pressure or if the high side pressure goes above the limit pressure. Normally, we charge the refrigerator every other day until it cuts out. This takes about an hour at 1200 RPM.)

The high side of Catspaw's refrigeration system is plumbed with 3/8 in copper tubing and the low side with 5/8 in copper tubing. Fittings are mostly flare. Downstream of the compressor on the high side is a raw water cooled monel condensor, mounted on the starboard side of the engine room between the primary fuel filter and the raw water filter. A small electic pump (mounted on the port engine bed) circulates raw cooling water through the condensor when the compressor is running. (This pump is a recent addition to the system. Originally, water from the engines's raw water pump was diverted to cool the condensor.)

Further downstream is the system receiver, mounted on the aft bulkhead beneath the starboard counter (accessed via a pair of forward-facing cabinet doors). Outboard of the receiver is the control panel and, under the control panel, pressure gauges for the system's high and low sides. The high side line goes from the receiver to the dryer and sight glass (outboard of the control panel). From there it makes a turn forward and enters the icebox (where it connects with the expansion valve at the aft end of the holding tank). The pressure gauges and sight glass are both visible through a large opening in the (closed) outboard door beneath the counter.

The ~.5 cu ft holding tank is plumbed with multiple parallel sections of 5/8 in schedule K copper tube that extend through and are soldered to 1/4 in brass plates at the fore and aft ends of the tank. 180 deg fittings join the ends of these tubes external to the tank. A heavy brass skin is soldered to this framework to form the actual tank, which runs fore and aft in the PVC lined icebox. Outboard of the tank is a narrow ~.5 cu ft space designed to accomodate two layers of soft drinks. Inboard of the tank is a much wider ~2 cu ft space for the refrigerator's remaining contents (leftovers, luncheon meats, cheeses, bottle drinks, and produce, in particular lettuce and other salad makings). Catspaw's past cuisine has been oriented towards pressure cooker meals, using potatoes and onions (both stored at galley temperature), canned vegetables, and canned meats (in particular, home canned meats).

Downstream from the holding tank (on the suction side of the system), the low side refrigeration line (5/8 in) exits the icebox aft, passes through a low side filter under the receiver and then turns aft and follows the upper starboard edge of the engine room forward and down to the low side input to the compressor. Throughout most of its length, this low side return line is insulated.

In putting this system together, I wanted a refrigerator, not a freezer. Accordingly, we have mostly filled the holding tank with plain water (leaving a gap to allow for expansion). This gives refrigerator temperatures and refreshingly cold drinks. And, if you are careful not to place produce immediately adjacent to the tank, it will stay fresh without burning. (Lower temperatures would ice the drinks and burn the produce.)

The system was designed for and still uses a freon 12 refrigerant. However, the current synthetic oil in the system will accomodate either freon 12 or its eutectic equivalent. We have not yet run out of freon 12, so we have not had to replace it.

2009 Refrigeration Photos

Catspaw's PVC electrical panel, by the stepdown from the galley to the saloon, is divided into three sections. The upper section contains various gauges and switches monitoring and controlling the engine and electrical system. The middle section is Catspaw's 120 VAC panel. The lower section is Catspaw's 12 VDC panel. All gauges, switches, and fuses are mounted on the starboard face of the panel. The lower sections are behind a clear plastic door that opens to starboard, allowing the underlying switches and fuses to be toggled and replaced from the stepdown. The corresponding electrical connections are made on the port face of this panel, accessible through the adjacent aft-opening cabinet door beneath the port counter.

The engine gauges in the upper section include a tachometer, ammeter, oil pressure gauge, engine temperature gauge, and engine hour meter. Engine switches include a glow-plug button switch (engaged for 20 sec before starting the engine), starter switch, and an engine shutoff switch (a mechanical pullswitch linked to the engine shutoff on the injector pump. (Control of Catspaw's engine is split between galley and cockpit. The engine is started and stopped from the electrical panel in the galley. Its throttle and transmission are controlled from the control post in the cockpit.)

A final gauge in the upper section of the panel measures either the battery voltage or the AC voltage, depending on the position of a three position switch under this gauge. (The gauge is calibrated in microamperes but has been wired to give an approriate reading in both cases. A reading of 12 microamperes corresponds to 12 VDC with the switch in the DC position and to 120 VAC with the switch in the AC position. As is the case with all three-position switches, the middle position connects to neither source.)

Two other switches in this section of the panel determine the source of 120 VAC power. The upper three-position switch switches the AC power between shore power and ship power. The lower three-position switch switches the ship power between an inverter mounted on the main bulkhead adjacent to the back side of the electrical panel and Catspaw's engine-driven AutoGen generator (not currently mounted but still presumably functional). Both sources are toggled on and off in the lower section of the electrical panel. Also mounted on the bulkhead next to the panel are a battery charger, a regulator for the solar panel, and an engine starter-switch-activated relay that provides DC power for the refrigeration system. The charger is toggled on and off in the middle section of the electrical panel.

A third three-position switch determines the power that is fed to the light fixtures mounted on Catspaw's bulkheads. Home at the dock for long periods of time, the bulbs are changed to 120 VAC bulbs and this switch is placed in the AC position. At sea, this switch is placed in the DC position and the bulbs changed to 12 VDC bulbs. Changing bulbs by hand may seem a primitive way of dealing with a ship's lighting, but it is in fact a very simple and uncomplicated way to effect a dual system.

Catspaw's interior light fixtures were originally chrome plated zamak castings and employed parchment lampshades that clipped onto the bulbs. When it came time to replace these fittings, I tried to find a cheap and non-corosive alternative. (Zamak does not belong on boats!) The current bulkhead light fixtures are custom built from standard PVC electrical parts. They are simple, cheap, non-corrosive, and relatively attractive (although some sort of lateral lampshade would improve their appearance).

The AC section of the electrical panel is relatively modest, as there are few systems that run on AC power. Indeed this section primarily distributes AC power to the AC outlets built into the bulkheads.

A second network of outlets built into the bulkheads provides 12 VDC power. To keep these outlets distinct from the AC outlets, but stay with relatively standard off the shelf hardware, I have gone to a common three-prong outlet and plug, normally used for 240 VAC (with one spade vertical and the other horizontal). There are also some instances where I have used cigarette lighter type hardware for 12 VDC outlets. Catspaw has an abundance electrical outlets. You can find a convenient source for both 120 VAC and 12 VDC practically anywhere below decks. Above decks, you have to run a cable below. (There is a cigarette lighter type 12 VDC fixture on the aft side of the deckhouse.)

Aboard a cruiser like Catspaw, electrical power is a precious commodity to be husbanded and spent wisely. It is a particularly bad idea to rely solely on battery power for lighting. Accordingly, Catspaw also has some kerosene cabin lamps. The most important of these is a larger gimballed lamp with a circular wick that hangs over the dinette table. This lamp, properly adjusted, is quite adequate for many activities that take place at this table after dark. Three other gimballed Perko cabin lamps, located strategically at the forward end of the upper berth in the saloon, above the sink in the galley, and on the aft side of the control post in the aft stateroom provide additional light.

Originally, Catspaw even had kerosene navigation lights (Perko). These lamps were in fact never very satisfactory as it was difficult, if not impossible, to keep them from blowing out. The current electical system of navigation lights employs bronze fittings (also Perko). A pair of running lights is mounted on the sides of the deckhouse at its forward end. The bow light is mounted at the top of the mainmast, and the stern light is mounted at the top of the mizzenmast. A low amperage (.1 amp) anchor light that plugs into the outlet at the aft end of the deckhouse is hung in the rigging at anchor. A pair of spreader lights are mounted on the undersides of both the main and mizzen spreaders.

Catspaw employs two 100 amp hr 12 VDC deep cycle storage batteries. One of these batteries is kept in reserve, just in case the working battery becomes discharged. A battery switch mounted at the aft end of the engine room determines which of the two batteries is currently active. An auxilliary switch in the DC section of the electrical panel enables one to recharge both batteries simultaneously (without accessing the main battery switch).

The batteries are recharged primarily by an 80 watt Kyocera solar panel, permanently mounted on the port forward corner of the deckhouse and regulated before delivery to the 12 VDC bus of the electrical panel, and by the engine altenator (when underway under power or when charging the refrigerator). Catspaw also carries two additional flexible 30 watt Solarex solar panels that can temporarily be deployed to help rescue a sagging battery. Finally, Catspaw also has a Hamilton Ferris wind generator (with 30 in wood propellor and spare generator) that can be mounted on the bow pulpit when at anchor. (This wind generator, however, does not start to give appreciable output until the wind speed gets up to about 15 knots. Since acquiring a large solar panel, we have used this wind generator only very infrequently.)

Catspaw's entertainment center, a standard 12 VDC car AM/FM radio and CD system, mounted underneath the saloon bookshelf, feeds a pair of 12 in polyplanar speakers built into the aft and forward bulkheads. In each case the sound propagates both fore and aft of the bulkhead. It's not exactly stereophonic sound, but it's good sound, particularly in the galley and saloon where both speakers can be heard. The secondary output of the sound system feeds a pair of secondary speaker outlets on the aft side of the deckhouse. By temporarily connecting a pair of cockpit speakers to these outlets, one can pipe stereo music to the cockpit. The entertainment center is readily replaced by another car system, as the power and speaker requirements for such systems are pretty standard.

2009 Electrical System Photos

Catspaw has three awnings, a main awning covering the deck and deckhouse between the mainmast and the mizzenmast, an over-the-mizzen-boom cockpit awning covering the cockpit and boomkin, and an under-the-mizzen-boom sailing awning covering the cockpit.

The main awning, originally stitched together in Ahe during our trip around the world, has been used sparingly since returning from this trip. As a consequence, this Vivatex awning is still in reasonably good condition. The fore and aft center ridge of the awning is supported from above by the main halyard (via a harness that attaches to the ridge), and this ridge is pulled tight between the masts. A pair of lanyards from each corner of the awning (one directed outboard and the other either forward or aft) is then fastened to the upper and lower stays of the mainmast and mizzenmast, and the short flaps along the sides of the awning are pulled towards the lifeline (via a series of tiedowns).

The over-the-mizzen-boom cockpit awning is similarly constructed, except that it is sewn from acryllic, uses the mizzen halyard to support the ridge of the awning, and employs a 1 1/2 in pole along its aft edge to spread the awning athwartships. The ridge is pulled tight between the mizzenmast and the end of the mizzenboom, using two lanyards attached to the center of the pole. One of these lanyards pulls the pole towards the end of the boom; the other attaches part way up on the topping lift (still attached to the end of the mizzen boom) and pulls the pole away from the boom. The forward corners of the awning are held in place by lanyards running to the mizzen stays. Tiedowns from the flaps and lanyards from the ends of the pole run to the lifelines, port and starboard.

The sailing awning is also sewn from acryllic. This awning has no flaps or tiedowns and is largely suppoted by an aluminum tube framework that plugs into two sockets mounted on the outer sides of the cockpit. This framework is in several pieces that lock together. Two thwartships members sit in sleeves in the awning itself, one along its aft edge, the other across the center of the awning. The ends of the aft member curl around and lock into a pair of long tubes that plug into and extend aft and up from the sockets. The ends of the center member curl around and lock into a pair of shorter tubes that extend forward and up from the middle of the longer tubes. (The short tube and the long tube are permanently attached, but collapse together for storage.) The forward edge of the sailing awning attaches to the mast and to the mizzen stays (via a pair of lanyards from each corner). A pair of lanyards run from the aft corners of the framework down to a pair of eyes in the aft corners of the cockpit sides.

The sailing awning is a true friend in the tropics. Although this awning barely covers the cockpit, one can always find shade beneath it, and one can, with some difficulty, continue to set, furl, and unfurl the mizzen underway.

All awnings can be rigged to catch water and deliver it to the fresh water fill on the backside of the deckhouse. In particular, the sailing awning has a pair of brass teats that attach to a vinyl hose that joins and leads the streams to the fill. (One can typically collect a lot of water in a good shower, provided the wind is not too strong.)

Both cockpit awnings roll up and stow readily on the shelves forward. The side supports for the sailing awning also stow there.

We still have the hand-crank Read's sewing machine that accompanied us around the world (and was employed to sew the main awning). We were not entirely happy with this machine and have not used it in a long time, but we believe that it can still be made to work.

The ketch rig is a difficult rig on which to install an effective wind vane steerer. The basic problem is that the more powerful two axis designs for vane steerers typically employ a high-aspect vane that articulates about a horizontal axis, and this vane runs afoul of the mizzen boom. Faced with this dilemna, I decide to build a low-aspect custom steerer for Catspaw employing two vertical axes. I found the inspiration for my design in John Letcher's book on self steering.

The central element in Catspaw's wind vane steerer is its (nominally) vertical drive shaft. The wind pushes on one side or the other of the steerer's vane and causes the shaft to rotate. This rotation is transmitted (via a series of linkages, one of which is coaxial with the main rudder) to a trim tab on the trailing edge of this rudder. The trim tab in turn alters the main rudder angle, Catspaw's heading, and also, to some extent, the apparent wind seen by the vane. This cycle repeats until an equilibrium heading is established,

The drive shaft is supported from below by a mount that rises from the starboard forward corner of the boomkin. Coaxial with this shaft is a central stack of four 6 in diameter 1/4 in thick stainless steel plates, whose relative orientation controls the operation of the steerer. One of these plates, the second from the top, is welded to the shaft at its center. This plate rides on a roller bearing on top of the boomkin mount, which bearing supports the considerable weight of both the shaft and the vane assembly that rides on the upper half of this shaft. Sleeve bearings couple the lower shaft to the boomkin mount and the upper shaft to the vane assembly. A second roller bearing separates the shaft plate and the vane assembly.

The bottom plate in the stack does not in fact rotate. It is fixed integral to the boomkin mount. The second plate from the bottom (the vane linkage plate) is free standing and rides on this bottom plate. The top plate in the stack is integral to the base of the vane assembly and rides on the second roller bearing.

The rotation of the plates relative to one another is controlled by a series of pins that snap down from the top plate or up from the bottom plate. These pins are redundant in pairs. Two pairs (four shorter pins, two from above and two from below) extend into the adjacent plate, constraining two plates (either the upper two or the lower two) to rotate together. Two pairs (four longer pins, two from above and two from below) extend through the adjacent plate into the next plate, constraining three plates (either the upper three or the lower three) to rotate together. The pins index the relative orientation of the inner plates in increments of 9 degrees (via a set of 40 holes drilled into each of the inner plates).

The vane assembly is in two parts, the shaft interface and the vane itself, which pivots along a second shared vertical axis parallel to and roughly 8 in downwind from the axis of the shaft. Both the shaft interface and the vane are counterbalanced. At right angles to the vane at the bottom of its leading edge and extending out on both sides is a arm for anchoring the linkage between the vane and the vane linkage plate. The linkage is pinned between this arm and an ear attached to the outside of the linkage plate.

Depending upon which pins are extended from the top and bottom plates into the neighboring plates, Catspaw's vane steerer can be operated in several modes.

1) Manual steering mode. In this mode, the wind vane is locked and does not servo the trim tab and rudder. Catspaw is steered manually, using the tiller. To get to this mode, one needs to pin all four plates together. The simplest way to accomplish this is to extend one long pin from the top plate and one short pin from the bottom plate. In this mode, the trim tab is locked in a fixed position (relative to the main rudder). Normally (for example, under power), one pins the plates with the trim tab parallel to the rudder so as not to bias the helm. But one can also pin the plates to ease the helm when the sail plan causes either weather helm or lee helm.

2) Single axis mode. In this mode, the wind vane is locked parallel to the vane assembly and rotates with this assembly. One gets to this mode by lining up the vane with the vane assembly and extending a single long pin down from the top plate (pinning both the shaft plate and the vane linkage plate). However, Catspaw must first be brought to the proper heading before extending the pin. Note that, in this mode, the angle of attack that the wind presents to the vane lessens as the drive shaft rotates. Accordingly, this mode is not as powerful as the dual axis mode. It is also more difficult to set up. In consequence, we have in fact used this mode very little.

3) Dual axis mode. In this mode, the shaft plate is pinned to the top plate, and the vane linkage plate is pinned to the bottom plate. (In each case a single short pin is all that's needed.) Note that, in this mode, as the shaft rotates, the absolute orientation of the vane stays pretty much the same. This means that the response of the system to errors in heading is more sustained, and the trim tab rotates through a bigger angle.

In setting up the steerer for any of these modes, the virtual tiller (one of the linkages between the drive shaft and the trim tab) is useful for getting the trim tab properly aligned before pinning the plates.

In dual axis mode, one typically disengages all pins, uses the virtual tiller to get Catspaw on course, rigs the vane linkage one side or the other, engages a short pin from the top and a short pin from the bottom, observes what actual course results, and then adjusts this course by moving the pins one hole at a time. This adjustment takes some practice, but is well worth the effort. You will find very few situations with any wind at all in which you can't make it all work.

It is best to go into manual mode before coming about.

The basic steering linkages built into Catspaw's vane steerer are amenable to being driven by Catspaw's heading relative to some fixed compass heading, rather than by her heading relative to the apparent wind. About five years ago, I attempted to adapt Catspaw's steerer to a Simrad Tiller Pilot (driving the trim tab). There is no fundamental reason why this scheme should not work. Nonetheless, I have not been able to make it work, and I stopped playing with it several years ago. The mechanical mount and electrical connections for the Tiller Pilot are still in place, on the aft port side of the cockpit, and this autopilot is included in the sale as a piece of nonworking gear that might possibly be brought to life (perhaps in consultation with Simrad).

Wind Vane Steerer Photos

Catspaw normally anchors with one or two relatively light (25 lb) CQR anchors. These anchors hang from a simple custom stainless steel clip built into the underside of the bowsprit. This clip supports the shanks of the anchors, while the chain ends of these shanks are pulled forward to the rollers at the end of the bowsprit. The chains are then clipped tight inboard of the chocks, using keepers that run aft to the bits. Each of the anchor lines currently carries about 10 m of 3/8 in chain and 50 m of 5/8 in nylon line. The chains stow in a tray straddling the inboard bowsprit, and the lines flake fore and aft in the waterways along the forward bulwark. This system keeps the active ground tackle completely above deck. There is no chain locker (and no attendant moisture) below deck.

A major advantage of relatively light ground tackle is that it can be deployed and raised by hand (with some help from the engine to slack the line). A disadvantage is that light ground tackle does not hold as well as heavy ground tackle. A second disadvantage is that nylon line can chafe through on objects on the bottom, so one has to be very careful that this line stays away from such objects (by using auxilliary floats attached to the line). As discussed in the Owner's Comments section of this site, I have no hesitancy in recommending this system for the Bahamas, where most anchorages are relatively shallow and where one can almost always find a patch of sand free of obstructions to anchor in. We have also employed this system in much less favorable environments (one year in the Caribbean and four years around the world). The bottomline is that Catspaw survived, but, if we were to make these trips again, we would do something to make her anchoring system more secure (most probably increase the chain length to 30 m and add an anchor windlass to help haul in this chain).

Catspaw also carries a 45 lb CQR anchor, a long length of 3/8 in chain, and a long length of 5/8 in nylon line for possible use in a storm situation. We have previously deployed the storm anchor and line, but the chain has never been out of the forepeak.

Ground Tackle Photos

Catspaw currently has two tenders, a small light fiberglass dinghy and a good sized hypalon inflatable.

The fiberglass dinghy, an 8 ft Jolly Boat built in Fort Lauderdale in the mid 1970s by Brandon Manufacturing, rows nicely, will accept a 2 HP outboard, and has a very nice cat sailing rig. There are three builtin fiberglass seats (with sufficient floatation that the swamped dinghy will not sink), one immediately forward of the transom, one amidships over the centerboard trunk, and one just aft of the stem. The dinghy can be rowed from either of the seats forward. It is quite stable, even when heavily loaded. (We have occasionally had as many as four aboard, and have routinely carried three.)

To rig the dinghy for sailing, one needs first to assemble the mast, which stows in two pieces with the boom on the port side of the forepeak (under the deck beams). The assembled free-standing aluminum mast steps through a hole in the forward seat of the dinghy. The halyard is inside the mast and the luff of the loose-footed sail rides in a groove on the aft edge of this mast. The sail is best raised from and the sailing rig best completed from the dinghy. A fiberglass collapsing rudder and aluminum tiller (also stowed in the forepeak) drop into place on the transom, and a rope traveller attaches to the transom lifting eyes. The centerboard pivots forward and low on the centerboard trunk and lowers from the upper aft corner of the trunk. The sheet can then be rigged and the outhaul for the foot of the sail run through the block at the end of the boom. The rig is best sailed by one or two people sitting in the bottom of the dinghy, forward of the aft seat. It is a delightful rig to sail in light to moderate winds, but is somewhat overpowered beyond that. (It has been capsized a number of times.)

The Jolly Boat stows upside down over the forward hatch (as described above).

The inflatable, a 10 ft Apex, is a bit big for Catspaw, but has worked out quite well. It does not stow well on deck inflated (it just takes up too much room!), so we typically either carry it below deflated or we tow it (with or without the outboard, depending on conditions). In our recent trips to the Bahamas we have typically put off inflating it until we have arrived somewhere where we need it, and then have towed it for the remainder of the cruise, sometimes deflating it again before crossing back to South Florida.

The inflatable has a vinyl rollup floor and fiberglass seat, and is rated for a 10 HP outboard. It has oversize tubes and will accomodate a large load (up to five adults). With 10 HP and only one or two people aboard, the inflatable will get up on a plane, but not with three or more. It makes an excellent snorkelling platform. We have equipped it with a telescoping stainless steel swimming ladder (mounted on the transom), so it is relatively easy to get aboard from the water (even for us older folks). This ladder bolts to a bracket permanently attached to the transom and is removed when storing the inflatable.

The current outboard is a 9.8 HP Nissan two-cycle outboard, weighing something like 65 lbs. It is about as heavy an engine as can conveniently be stowed in the forepeak and horsed around to mount on the inflatable. (We use a halyard to lower the outboard onto the inflatable.) Two-cycle outboards in this environmentally sensitive age are, unfortunately, a thing of the past. With this outboard (which is still in very good condition), the buyer has an opportunity to run a relatively high power-to-weight ratio outboard until it dies (hopefully a good long while), before being forced to go to a four-cycle replacement. (When that happens, he will probably have to choose between a considerably heavier engine with sufficient power to get the inflatable up on a plane and a less powerful engine that is at least light enough to horse around. Given this choice, I would probably give up the ability to plane the inflatable and opt for the lighter less powerful engine.)

2009 Jolly Boat Photos

2008 Inflatable Photos

Catspaw's underbody features an outboard rudder, modest draft, slack lines, and a long straight keel. These features result in stable troublefree steering and an easy motion. Catspaw is comfortable on the open sea, but is also well suited to gunkholing more shallow environments such as the Bahamas.

2007 Haulout Photos